Royal Python
Care Sheet
Introduction
If your thinking of getting a royal python as a pet, make sure you do a lot of research first. Royals can have a life span of 20+ years in captivity or sometimes longer so you must be prepared to commit to looking after them long term. They make great pets for first time snake owners. They can grow to around 150cm, so you must be prepared to commit to looking after them long term.
Enclosure
Their enclosure is called a vivarium. It must be secure to prevent escape and free from hazards that might cause injury. It needs to have good ventilation as this is essential to prevent the build up of harmful bacteria. The minimum size viv should be 3ft x 2ft x 2ft, although we would always recommend the bigger the better. Royals can become stressed in large, bare spaces, therefore they need plenty of hides and cover. They use their environment to warm up and cool down. The way to do this is to create a heat source at one end while leaving the other end cool. They need light to be able to detect heat. The viv should have a "basking zone", this is the warmest part a snake can get.
* Use a 60-100w bulb at the warm end.
* Use a thermostat to regulate the temperature.
* Hot end = 28-30 degrees
*Cool end = 24-26 degrees
Low humidity is essential to keep your snakes respiratory system healthy and for healthy skin shedding. This should be maintained at 50-60% at the cool end. Mist the viv with clean water to boost humidity to around 80%. Snakes use natural daylight to set their day and night patterns. One part they need is UBV which you get from the sun, this is an important part and allows them to make essential vitamin D in its skin. Vitamin D allows them to store and use calcium. The other part is called UVA, this is essential for their vision as they can then see more colours.
Diet
Behaviour
It is important to provide stimulating environment that promotes natural behaviours called "enrichment". Royal pythons love to climb in the open and in low light. Choose a sturdy decoration such as branches that will support their weight. If using natural branches, sterilise them first with boiling water to eliminate and insects etc. Royals like small spaces as they typically hide in burrows in the wil. Include hides at both ends of the viv. Hides need to big enough for them to fit in but not so big that their body cannot touch the sides of the hide when its coiled up. Royal pythons are naturally solitary species so we would recommend housing them alone.
A dish must be provided for drinking at the cool end filled with clean, fresh water and replaced daily. It needs to be large enough to allow the snake to bathe in. In the wild, Royals will eat a variety of prey but in captivity we would recommend a diet of frozen (then thawed) rodents. As a rule offer prey to your snake that is slightly wider than the widest part of their body.
Young snakes typically feed every 5-6 days and the size of there food grows as they do.
Adult snakes typically feed every 7-14 days depending on the weight of the snake. The more you feed them, the bigger (and fatter) they will grow.
Take care when feeding your snake as there is a risk of them accidently swallowing their substrate. Offer food using tongs and monitor them until they have finished swallowing. Snakes should not be handled for at least 24-48 hours after feeding as they could regurgitate their food. Royal pythons like to go on what we call a "hunger strike". It is common for royals to go for months at a time without taking any food. If this happens keep trying using day old chicks but DO NOT worry. If your royal is not losing any weight and still seems healthy and content then there should be nothing to worry about. If you find your royal is losing weight and still not eating please consult your vet. Make sure that the humidity and temperature of your enclosure are correct.
Substrate
Substrate is the floor covering of the viv. It is important as it provides something for the snake to burrow under which will help it feel more secure. Soils made for reptiles hold humidity well without it going mouldy. If you find mould forming then your humidity might be too high and your ventilation may be inadequate. Natural leaves can be used to create cover, create a naturalistic environment and also hold humidity. Sterilise anything that you use with boiling water and allow them to dry. It is not recommended to use sand for royals as this can irritate their skin.
Shedding
Reptiles have to regularly shed their skin and a healthy snake will often shed in one piece - don't worry if they don't though. There is no rule as to how often they shed, but the more often they eat the more often they will shed. You will find that young snakes shed more frequently. When they go "into shed" you will find they can become off their food and turn into a dull colour, their eyes will usually turn blue too. When its time to shed the skin they will rub their body against objects in the viv to help them remove the old skin. It is always best to check the the head end of the old snake skin for the "eye caps". These should come off with the rest of the skin but if you find they are still on the snake they will need removing as soon as possible and you should contact your vet or a specialist reptile shop who may be able to help you. If the snake has not shed completely, try bathing it in slightly warm water to soften the stuck shed. If this happens on a regular basis this could be down to a dietary/set-up/humidity issue.
Bringing your python home
Always set up your viv and run it for about a week before introducing your snake. This will allow time for you to adjust the heating and lighting systems and add enrichment without disturbing your snake. Place the bag or tub containing your snake inside the viv and open it carefully to allow your snake to emerge. Close the door securely and turn the lights off to reduce the risk of stress until the following morning when you can check on your snake. It is best not to handle them too much for the first week. Instead, allow them time for them to become used to their new environment.
Any concerns
Look out for signs of weight loss or diarrhoea as these can be signs of internal parasites. Constipation could be a sign that the snake is poorly hydrated. Snakes can also be prone to mouth rot, an infection of the mouth. External parasites called "mites" lodge underneath the scales and drink blood. If you find you snake is spending long periods of time in their water bowl, this may indicate it has mites. There are various different ways to treat this and you can take a look at the following video on how we do this here:
Royals can be prone to respiratory infections. These are usually caused by the humidity being too high or poor ventilation. This will require a trip to your vet as your royal will most likely need antibiotics.
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